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Do you know how to read your Swatch ?


Have you ever wondered about those markings on the back of your Swatch ?

They are actually quite informative. From these markings you can determine the exact week that your Swatch was born, Date it, which country it was destined for sale in, Export? weather it has been reconditioned before sale or if it was a staff purchase from the factory, staff sale? if it was a limited edition ltd. etc. Is it a Variant ?. Are there known problems with Swatches? Trouble..

Please note. I am not a dealer and am not in the business of giving valuations !


Lets start with the guarantee slip that usually comes with your watch. On the front of the guarantee there is normally a code number identifying the characteristics of the watch. Eg GB101 or SLB101 or SSK105 etc.... You won't always get the right guarantee slip for the watch but it will suffice for the purposes of the guarantee. The code as described here is the actual code for the model, not neccesarily the (incorrect) guarantee slip.

The code breaks down like this:-

First part of code (letters). This is the model type.

Letter Model type Letter Model type Letter Model type
B Pop (1986-88) G Gents model L Ladies model
PAN Pager (numeric) PAT Pager (tone) PM Pop midi
PW Pop (1991 on) PWB Pop (1989-1990) SB Aquachrono
SA Automatic model SC Chrono model SD Scuba model
SE Aquachrono midi SK Access SR Solar
SS Stop-Swatch SL Musicall YC Irony Chrono
YD Irony Scuba YG Irony Gents YL Irony lady
YS Irony small SF SKIN model

 

Second part of code (letters). This describes the colour of the case (the body of the watch).

Letter Colour Letter Colour Letter Colour
A Anthracite B Black C Coffee (brown)
F Transparent brown G Green G Gold (Irony)
I Indigo J Yellow K Transparent/clear
L Lime M Metal gray N Dark blue
O Orange P Pink R Red
S Electric blue S Silver (Irony) T Beige (Tan)
V Violet W White X Metallic case / normal band
Y Metallic case + band Z Special

 

First number of the code. Describes the number of hands and date functions.

Number Meaning
0 Zero With hours and minutes only. No seconds, date or calendar
1 One With hours, minutes and seconds. No date or calendar.
4 Four With hours, minutes, seconds and date. No calendar.
7 Seven With hours, minutes, seconds, date and calendar.

The remaining two numbers appear to be for cataloguing purposes. Eg 00 = First type of a particular series, 01 = second type of a particular series etc.

Example code for "Access To Space". SKZ 100.

Code Part 1 of code Part 2 of code Part 3 of code Part 4 of code
SKZ 100 SK = Access model (transparent case) Z = Special 1 = With hours, minutes and seconds. No date or calendar. 00 = first model of this type

 

Example code for "Navy Roman". GN 702.

Code Part 1 of code Part 2 of code Part 3 of code Part 4 of code
GN 702 G = Gents model N = Navy Blue case 7 = With hours, minutes, seconds, date and calendar. 02 = third model of this type

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Export codes.

On the back of the watch case you will find an export code (only if it has been exported). A selection of these are:-

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Date code. Usually above "PATENTED WATERRESISTANT" marking.

On the ladies models since 1986 there will be a code similar to S 611 or S 925. The letter S always appears on the ladies models (some gents models are fitted with the "ladies" movement and thus have the S and a single position pull out winder.Gents movements always have a two position pull out winder and no letter S) followed by three figures.

The first figure is the year of manufacture. eg 6 can be '86 or '96 (no distinction between the two is made), 9 must be '89 (untill 1999), 5 can be '85 or '95.

The next two numbers are the week of manufacture. So the example S 611 would be a ladies model made in either 1986 or'96 (no distinction between the two is made) in week 11. Or S 925 is a ladies model manufactured in the 25th week of 1989. It must be '89 as there are no Swatches from 1979 or 1999 yet !.

On the Gents models there is USUALLY a four figure code above the patented waterresistant logo. First number=Year of manufacture, Second and third numbers=Week of manufacture, Fourth number=Day of manufacture................. eg 9502 tells us that this watch was assembled on Tuesday (4th number=day of the week 2) in the fiftieth week (2nd and 3rd numbers=week 50) in year 1989! So the birthdate of this watch would be Tuesday 19th Dec 1989. This code is often followed by a letter P. This simply indicates that the watch was made in Gretchen on the main production line near Biel.

Note. The Swatch range is so varied that some will have slight differences in exactly where and what information is contained on the back of the case. The information I have given here applies to the broad range of ladies and gents watches and for example "chronos" will have a slightly different method of "coding.

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Staff sales and refurbished.

Some watches are stamped with the letters P or R usually above or over the export code (3 or 4 figure code. See above) or on the upper part or the rear casing. The letter P ( not to be confused with the one following the date code) means that the watch was sold to a member of staff working in the factories (Personal edition). These can sometimes be prototypes or variations from the standard model. The letter R indicates that the watch has been refurbished or reconditioned. This usually applies to watches that have been cleaned or had new bands fitted as a result of being "on the shelf" or being unsold for a long time. These letters are normally quite obvious and can be seen to be tampered with on occasions.

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Limited editions.

True limited editions have the stamping ????/9999 or ????/****. The **** being the amount issued, ???? being the watch number of that edition. eg 069/100 would be watch number sixty nine of one hundred. This would be very rare as a great deal more than one hundred are normally produced ! This number is stamped into the watch case on most limited editions but the corresponding paperwork should have the matching number where appropriate. "Normal" editions run typically to arond 20,000. The recently added, yearly, artist colections are limited to 50,000 but are only stamped "Limited Edition" on the case. The Time Cut chronometer is a numbered limited edition but as this particular one is an Aluminium Irony, stamped at the chronometer testing centre, it is stamped with the number on the watch face (more or less tamperproof) and on the perspex display box. This is just another example given to show how wide ranging and varied the system of numbering and authentication stamping can be. If your'e not sure of the watches authenticity ask someone who does know. Don't get burned!. Top of page.


Why are the older art specials so expensive?

Well thats because firstly there are so few. eg Kiki Picasso, 120 or even 140 depending who you ask ! ( prices currently around £15,000 ) or the Mimmo Palladino, 160 of ( prices currently around £14,000 ) . Secondly they were never on sale to the public. These were sent to people whom had done a "service" to Swatch or to recognise those whom Swatch held dear.
The newer art specials will never reach the prices of older ones as the watches are no longer limited to runs of 100 or 1000 but more likely 20,000+. Good news for collectors, bad news for "investors". The true art specials are NOT to be confused with the Artist series of watches produced now each year. These are a limited run ( "limited" to 50,000 ) of watches by modern artists including such illustrious names as Yoko Ono, Kenny Scharf and Bridget Mutji to name but a few. Some of these watches are now relatively collectible but you couldn't retire on the strength of them.
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Known problems.

Thankfully the list of known problems with Swatch watches is very small indeed. The earliest series of Swatch watches (over 10 years old) are known to deteriorate and suffer from "crumbling" where the case and strap begins to break up but considering that a Swatch is designed to last around ten years its not so bad. The ten year mark is nothing to worry about. I have seen very few non-working watches up to thirteen years old with no troubles. It is designed to last at least ten years rather than just ten years. Why the ten year figure? Apparently it is difficult to provide enough "oil" to lubricate the watch for longer with todays production methods. The "crumbling" watch problem has been fixed by using modern polymers rather than those availiable in the early years.

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Variations and prototypes.

Known variations from the "normal" Swatch product range are few and far between. These range from watches that you will not find in the normal catalogues (certain specials included) to slightly "different" Swatches. For example, some watches come with a date window but the occasional one slips through without the window or some watches have been known to have two hour hands instead of one or even come with the Swatch swiss logo printed upside down! These type of watches have a market all of their own and fetch some surprising prices. There are known examples of early Swatches being "personalised" by members of staff at the factory and these are also to be included on any Swatchers list of wants. Prototypes attract similarly surprising prices but of course are difficult to authenticate and there is always the risk of buying a fake although I have never seen a convincing fake Swatch yet. There is a pretty convincing fake of the Mimmo Pallidino Swatch around but you wouldn't part with £14,000 without checking it out would you ?

Note of caution.

Be extremely careful when buying so called automatic "prototypes". I can make my "own" version of anything with the right automatic and "donor" swatch and so can a few other people. It can be done (only with auto's as far as I know) with a little knowlege and a very steady hand so my advice is stay well clear. Don't shell out for something you cannot get proof of manufacture for.

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If you want any information or if I can help, don't hesitate to mail me. I don't know it all by a long way but you never know ! You can e-mail me at:swatch@allsopp.com